Thursday, August 8, 2013

1922 Europe Journal, Part 23: Leipzig, Dresden, Meissen


Monday, August 7, 1922 - Leipzig
L., R. and I got shampoos this morning the first thing. Got a singe and wash and curl for 100 marks. Went to a bank for money - got 745 on the dollar.  
In the p.m. we went to the museum, the University Library, the new theater, and the Rathaus [tavern]. Saw a fine art collection at the museum. Had to hurry because it closed at 3:00. Had planned to go to the theater but didn’t because of the strike riot. Had just finished our dinner when the mob came to our hotel. Came in looking for any of the help. Got the cook and the kitchen maid. The waiters strike has been on for seven weeks, but there has been no excitement for the last three. We went up to our rooms and watched the show from our windows. The police and soldiers came in a short time and got the crowd under control. They made seven or eight arrests. It was all rather exciting. We were glad that we were not on the street at the time and that we had planned to leave tomorrow.” 

[One of the oldest German university libraries - The University Library was founded in 1542 by Rector Caspar Borner starting with 1,000 books and around 1,500 manuscripts from the stocks of secularised monasteries.]
Tuesday, August 8, 1922 - Leipzig
“Didn’t sleep as well last night as I might have. We were all a bit nervous after the excitement of the evening.  Got a carriage and took a ride about the city. Went out to the monument of the battle of the nations. It is a stupendous structure. The largest monument in Germany. Got back to the hotel and had lunch.”  

[The Monument to the Battle of the Nations (German: Völkerschlachtdenkmal) is a monument in Leipzig, Germany to the 1813 Battle of Leipzig, also known as the Battle of the Nations. The monument commemorates Napoleon's defeat at Leipzig, a crucial step towards the end of hostilities in the War of the Sixth Coalition.]

“Had to hurry to get away for the train at 2:45. Found the train crowded. Got to Dresden about 4:45. Came to the new Union hotel and got two dandy rooms with a bath between them. Rose and I took much needed baths, then we dressed and took a walk before dinner. Ate from 7:30 to 9:50. Got the giggles and nearly disgraced ourselves. Now I am going to bed and make up for the sleep I lost last night.” 

Wednesday, August 9, 1922 - Dresden
“Had a grand sleep. Got up about 8:40. After breakfast we shopped until time for lunch.  Got linen and china. Met a man from Milwaukee at the breakfast table. After lunch we tried to take a rubberneck ride - couldn’t make connections some way. So got a taxi and started out. Saw a good deal of the city. Stopped for coffee at the best coffee joint. We bet on the cost of the ride- 20 marks each. I won - had bet 1,500 [marks] the man charged 1,600. The mark is 760 [per dollar] this p.m. This morning, when we first went to the bank, L. and W. got 740. About half an hour later, when I went in, I got 750. We had dinner of summer sausage, rolls, cookies, and fruit.  Went to the theater this evening. Summer opera - the plot was of the time of the French Revolution. It was fine. Wonderful music. Cost 14 cents each. We are ready for our swims, then to bed.”

Thursday, August 10, 1922 - Dresden, Meissen
“Today we went to Meissen to see the porcelain factory. Left Dresden about 9:00 and had about a two hour ride on the train. Took a cab to the factory. Were much interested in the process. Met some Milwaukee people. After we left the factory, we went up to the castle where we had dinner at a nearby restaurant. After lunch, we went across to the castle.
Went through it and an old church. On our way back to the dock, we stopped in the oldest wine shop in Meissen. It looked like the oldest in Germany. Was the queerest place I ever was in. Left Meissen at 4:30 by boat. Got back to Dresden about 7:30. Dressed and went to dinner. Had a fine time eating. The orchestra played a medley of Southern airs. The Star Spangled Banner was included. We asked for the Unfinished Symphony and got it.”

[Meissen porcelain or Meissen china is the first European hard-paste porcelain that was developed from 1708 by Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus. The production of porcelain at Meissen, near Dresden, started in 1710 and attracted artists and artisans to establish one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers, still in business today as Staatliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen GmbH. Its signature logo, the crossed swords, was introduced in 1720 to protect its production; the mark of the crossed swords is one of the oldest trademarks in existence. It dominated the style of European porcelain until 1756.]

Friday, August 11, 1922 - Dresden, Berlin
“This morning we went to the Zwinger Art Gallery. Saw the original of the Sistine Madonna and Hoffman’s Christ Among the Doctors. Also some effective impressionistic work. Did a little more shopping. Left for Berlin about 7:00 in the evening. Didn’t have any reservations when we left. Couldn’t get rooms at the first hotel, but they sent us to the Central, where we got four singles.”

[The Zwinger is a palace in Dresden, eastern Germany, built in Rococo style and designed by court architect Matthäus Daniel PöppelmannThe Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (English: Old Masters Gallery or Old Masters Picture Gallery) in Dresden, Germany, displays around 750 paintings from the 15th to the 18th centuries. It includes major Italian Renaissance works as well as Dutch and Flemish paintings. Outstanding works by German, French and Spanish painters of the period are also among the gallery's attractions.]

[Hoffman’s Christ Among the Doctors is now in the National Museum, Warsaw.] 

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