1922 Europe Journal, Part 8: WWI Battlefields in France

There's a lot of history here. As you may have noticed, I've been putting my grandma's journal entries in quotes, italics, and a dark purple font. My notes and comments are in brackets within the story. I have done a lot of research just Googling places and terms, but I cannot link to any external websites without their permission. I leave it to you to dig in more if you are interested :)

Thursday, June 29, 1922

“We got up at 6:30 and got down to the American Express company by 8:30.  Didn’t get started on our two-day battlefield trip until 9:00.  Had a congenial party in the car. Our guide was mighty interesting and looked after us in fine shape.  Saw places where the Germans had cut down the long lines of trees on either side of the road.  The stumps could be seen.  We also saw a big air-plane station.  The guide explained how the roads were camouflaged during the war [WWI].  We stopped at Soissons for lunch.  Had a fine meal.  Walked about the town a bit.  Saw many evidences of the destruction of the war.  The cathedral and railroad center were demolished.”

Soissons, La Rue St-Christophe, circa 1914, before WWI

Soissons, La Rue St-Christophe, circa 1920, after WWI

[The Battle of Soissons occurred July 18-22, 1918. The German armies fought the French, who had American assistance. The battle ended with the French recapturing most of the ground lost to Germany the month before.]

“In the p.m. we drove on to Reims.  Here we saw the ruins of the famous cathedral which was one of the greatest and most beautiful in the world.  An old church built in the time of Caesar.  This town was under constant bombardment during the entire war. We stopped at Hill 108 this afternoon before we got to Reims. Here we saw the place just as it was left at the close of the war.  Went down into a dugout.  Picked poppies and found pieces of shell splinters.  All the way we could see signs of destruction.  The guide kept trying to impress upon us how it must have looked when all the green was off the trees.  We arrived at Reims where we had dinner and stayed all night.  The Company arranged for the accommodations.  We did not have a very clean place.  None of us enjoyed the eats very much.  The rooms were not so bad.  Slept under featherbeds.  I don’t see how the people of the towns can do as well as they do accommodating tourists.”

Rue Gambetta before and after WWI

[Reims is also spelled Rheims. Reims became a major city during the Roman Empire. As my grandma mentioned, severe damage was done to the cathedral here. Images of the damaged cathedral were used by France as anti-German propaganda. It certainly wasn’t hard to find massive destruction throughout France, judging by the images I’ve seen.]

Battlefied touring vehicle, circa 1922

Friday, June 30, 1922
“We started out again about 8:30. First we went out to the fort outside of Reims (Fort de la Pompelle).  This has been fortified for years and the place was made use of during the war.  Had a good chance to see the barbed wire entanglements.  Had our pictures taken on an abandoned British tank.”

[Fort de la Pompelle is one of several forts built around Reims after 1870. During WWI, it saw the heaviest fighting of the Reims forts. It remains in a state of ruin to this day (2013).] 

On British Tank near Fort Le Pompelle

Two French soldiers as noted in the journal.

“Here we met two French soldiers who were on duty during rifle practice, which was being held a short distance away.  Our guide talked to them - then interpreted for us.  One was 14 when the war broke out.  He was taken prisoner, his father was killed.  They were very pleased to have W take their pictures.”

“Our next stop was at some famous wine caves near Reims.  These were originally chalk caves but were taken over by a wine company.  We saw a little of the process of making champagne.  It is stored for three years, then the bottles are inverted and turned every day for six weeks.  All of the residue which has collected about the cork is then frozen and removed.  A sweetening or flavoring syrup is put in and the bottles are sealed again.  There are over 11 miles of caves here.  At this time, they had about 11 million bottles of champagne.  In several different places there were large representations chiseled out of the rock showing the festival of Bachus, etc.  During the war, the manufacturing of wine went on just the same.  Some of the caves were used for school purposes also.  We had to walk down 116 steps, so you see it would take a pretty large bomb to penetrate that.”

“From Reims we went on through a number of little towns, all more or less destroyed, but all being re-built.  At Fisures [?] we had a puncture so we had a chance to walk about the town.  It was here that the Rainbow Division did hard fighting.  After our chauffeur had the tire fixed, we went on and stopped at Epernay where Quentin Roosevelt [Teddy’s son] was killed.  Walked back in the field to his grave.  The engine bothered, so once more we were held up by repairs.” 

[The “Rainbow Division” is the 42nd Infantry Division of the National Guard and U.S. Army. It has served in WWI, WWII, and the Global War on Terrorism. Quentin Roosevelt (Nov. 19, 1897 - July 14, 1918) was the youngest son of President Theodore Roosevelt. Quentin’s plane, a Nieuport 28, was shot down in combat over Chamery. The German military buried him with military honors; however, the flyers they created of the dead pilot for propaganda were met with shock by the German people, who held President Roosevelt in high respect.]

"Quentin Roosevelts Grave Near Chanerey"

“It was about 2:30 when we left Epernay and we were due at Chateau Thierry for lunch.  Got there about 3:30. The English lady who runs the restaurant was waiting for us and made us feel very welcome.  We were ready for lunch, too.  The guide ate with us. He was very interesting.  Our next stop was at Belleau Wood where the American Marines did such hard fighting.  The French government has changed the name to Marine Woods. Here we visited an American cemetery.  It is beautifully kept up.  Has a lovely American flag floating over it.  Climbed up to the top of the hill to the lookout.  We reached Paris about 9:00 - too late to go to a show.”

U. S. Cemetery near Belleau Wood - now Aisne-Marne American Cemetery 

[The Battle of Chateau-Thierry was fought on July 18, 1918. The American army played a large role fighting for the regions around Soissons and Chateau-Thierry. The Battle of Belleau Wood occurred from June 1-26, 1918, during the German Spring Offensive near the Marne River. U.S. forces suffered 9,777 casualties, including 1,811 killed. Many are buried in the nearby Aisne-Marne American Cemetery (the cemetery my grandma listed and photographed.) After the battle, the French renamed the wood, “Bois de la Brigade de Marine” - “Wood of the Marine Brigade” - in honor of the Marines’ tenacity.]

1922 Europe Journal, Part 7a: Versailles Postcards

On June 28, 1919, the Treaty of Versailles was signed in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles Palace. As my grandma wrote in her journal, they visited the Palace on the three year anniversary of the signing. She does not have any photographs of the Palace - either they weren't allowed to take them, or did not have a camera that could take indoor photos well. I've noticed every photograph of this journey is outdoors.

She did buy dozens of postcards from various places on this trip, including the Palace of Versailles. Below I've added a couple of postcard images. This is the cover of the postcard book:

Here is a nice arial view (in watercolor) of the Palace:

Palace of Versailles

The Hall of Mirrors:

Hall of Mirrors - where the Treaty of Versailles was signed.

1922 Europe Journal, Part 7: Paris, Louvre, Versailles

Tuesday, June 27

“Again we slept late.  Had lunch here at the hotel before we started out for the day. Went to the Louvre and spent the afternoon there.  It was wonderful to say the least.  We were glad we were not with a guide.  Saw many beautiful paintings and statues.  The Venus de Milo and Victory of Samothrace impressed me as much as any I believe.” 

[The Winged Victory of Samothrace (also called the Nike of Samothrace) is a marble scuplpture, circa 200-190 BCE, of the Greek goddess Nike (Victory).]

“When we left the Louvre we went to the Madeline.”

[L'église de la Madeleine (Madeleine Church) is a Roman Catholic church occupying a commanding position in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. The church was designed in its present form as a temple to the glory of Napoleon's army. To its south lies the Place de la Concorde, to the east is the Place Vendôme, and to the west L'église Saint-Augustin.]

“Hunted out a little shop that we had found on Saturday.  I bought a bead purse. We got back to the hotel about 8:00 and had dinner.  Spent the evening talking and now I am going to bed.”

Wednesday, June 28

“Got up and went down to the American Express to get our railroad tickets for Geneva and get Swiss and Italian money.  No mail.”

“At 10:00 we started for Versailles. Visited the little palace first.  It was built in 1766 for Louis XV and occupied by Mme. dePompadour and Marie DuBarry.  Marie Antoinette chose it as her favorite residence. The gardens here were first laid out as botanical gardens but were changed by Marie Antoinette.  The farm was worked by real peasants.  There was a mill there and the dairy still standing.  We had a good natured little guide who could spiel of French history by the yard.  Next we took in the large palace.  Here we saw lots of interesting things from coaches to tapestry.  It is in this palace that the peace treaty was signed in 1919.  We visited the room on the third anniversary.  The table on which the treaty was signed is shown to all visitors.  The room of mirrors where the table stood in 1919 is a marvelous place.  There are beautiful gardens about the palace.  The fountains play only on the first and third Sundays of the month, so of course, we missed that part of it.”  

[The Treaty of Versailles was one of the peace treaties at the end of World War I. It ended the state of war between Germany and the Allied Powers. It was signed on 28 June 1919 in the Palace of Versailles, exactly five years after the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand. The other Central Powers on the German side of World War I were dealt with in separate treaties. Although the armistice, signed on 11 November 1918, ended the actual fighting, it took six months of negotiations at the Paris Peace Conference to conclude the peace treaty. The treaty was registered by the Secretariat of the League of Nations on 21 October 1919, and was printed in The League of Nations Treaty Series.]

“We got back about 6:00.  Went to the opera in the evening.  Saw “Samson and Delilah”.  Got home early.  We didn’t stay for ballet.”

[Samson and Delilah is a grand opera in three acts and four scenes by Camille Saint-Saens to a French liretto by Ferdinand Lemaire. It was first performed in Weimar at the Grand Ducal Theater on 2 December 1877 in a German translation. Samson et Dalila is a consistent presence in the opera houses of Europe. By 1920, the Paris Opera alone had given more than 500 performance of the opera.]

1922 Europe Journal, Part 6: Paris, Fontainebleau, Barbizon

Here we pick up the ladies staying in Paris at the Victoria Palace hotel. They will do various tours throughout Paris and nearby cities and battlefields.

Sunday, June 25

“Had planned to go to mass with R at Notre Dame, but were so late getting started that we missed the service.  The church, of course, was wonderful, and I am sure that we all felt that just to go in and look about was a very fitting way to start the day.” [The Notre Dame website has great information and detailed history!]

"The village of Fontainebleau is 55 miles from Paris.  We went in a large autobus.  It was windy as the dickens and rather cold. Reached Fontainebleau a little after Noon.  Had lunch there and then went through the palace. It is a wonderfully historic place.  Practically all of the rulers of France have been connected with it in some way. Napoleon did much to the palace.  It was here that he signed the abdication papers.  We saw the room and the table where that took place.  Also the bedroom where he attempted suicide a week later.  The beautiful tapestries, furniture and wood carving can never be forgotten.” [Again, more fascinating history can be found about Fontainebleau online. The Treaty of Fontainebleau was signed 11 April 1814 and ended Napoleon’s rule as emperor of France - he was then exiled on Elba.]

“The driver took us through numerous little villages that were typical of the French people.  In the village of Barbizon, we saw the houses where many noted artists lived.  It is the home of the Barbizan School of Art.  Millet is one of the best known.  In this village, just at the entrance of the forest of Fontainebleau, is the house where Robert Louis Stevenson wrote his Forest Notes.”

Monday, June 26

“We slept late again this morning.  We were all so darn tired from the trip of yesterday that we couldn’t help it.  Rose and I got up and ...  went down to the American Express company and got tickets for Versailles and the battlefields. It started to rain before we left the Express company.   We had no umbrellas, so we found out that French rain is as wet as the other kind.” 

“Then we started out again and went to the Eiffel Tower.  Went up in it as far as we could go.  It is the highest structure in the world.  We surely got the breezes up there.  Had some of the punkest ice cream up there.” [The Eiffel Tower was the tallest building in the world from 1889 to 1930, standing at 986 feet high.]

“In the evening, we went to the Gaumont Palace where we saw a moving picture show.  It was rare.  Started about 8:30 and lasted until nearly 12:00.  First there was a comedy, I have really forgotten the point of it. Next were take-offs on some famous pictures, then the educational.  The picture proper followed.  It was a French movie. The part that amused us was the representation of the monied American.  After that came a Vaudeville act, which was followed by an American film showing Alice Brady. Between each of these sections of the programme, there was an intermission of some 10-15 minutes.  A good many of the people got up and prowled around then.  During the show, the men sat with their hats on and smoked as much as they liked.  There was much loving going on also.  If one such couple would be in a show at home, the audience couldn’t even look at the picture.”

[The Gaumont Palace was the biggest movie theater in Europe. Originally the Hippodrome Theatre, it was taken over by Leon Gaumont and opened as the Hippodrome Grand Cinema du Monde on December 14, 1907. It could seat over 5,000 people. Sadly, it was torn down in 1972.]

[Alice Brady was an American actress who worked in silent and talkie films. She died in 1939, at the age of 46, from cancer.

1922 Europe Journal, Part 5: Paris in the Spring

Disclaimer/Reminder: Please read and enjoy this blog and my grandma’s story. All images posted are very low resolution and watermarked. If you so desire a copy of an image you see, please contact me. I’ve found this a fascinating look back at history and events in both New York and Europe right after WWI. I continue to spend hours and weeks researching the places, events, and details, that she wrote about. My dream is to visit even a couple of these places and recreate some of the images and tours. 

Saturday, June 24

“We found our beds so comfortable that we didn’t get up until eleven. Had a grand rest.”

“After lunch we started out for downtown.  Tried the subway and got down o.k.” 

“As we strolled about, we would stop occasionally at a little shop.  Some of the girls bought some things, but I didn’t.  We went to the Tuileries.  Sat down in the garden and found that we had to pay for the privilege.  Looked at many of the statues and studied the arch at the lower end.  Erected to commemorate the victories of Napoleon, each side represents a different triumph.  At first we thought it was the Arch of Triumph, but after studying our map and using our heads a bit, we discovered the latter some distance up the other way.”

“Saw the monument erected by the schoolboys of France to Gambetta.  A short distance from it is one erected to Lafayette by the schoolboys of the United States.  Found the Louvre.  Also, the statue commemorating the last war, or rather one of them.  Each of the statues in the royal palace represented a different town or province of France.”

Le Monument de Gambetta

This photograph looks almost exactly like a pencil drawing postcard I found online. Her photo caption was "Looking towards the Louvre from the Tuileries."

“Next we decided to walk up to the Arch of Triumph, so off we started.  It was several miles, but was well worth the effort.  The Arch itself is a tremendous structure - erected in 1806 by Napoleon and finished by Louis Phillippe in 1836 in honor of the French Republic.  It is under this arch that the body of an unknown soldier, who gave his life in the last war, has been buried.  There were many floral offerings there today.”

“After our visit to the Arch, we took our first ride on the surface cars of Paris.  Happened to come across a man who understood English and heard us debating about the way to do it.  He explained it to us.  Had supper on the sidewalk in front of a restaurant.  At 8:45 we started on a trip about the city. Saw some of the things we had seen in the afternoon, but had them more fully explained.  Got back to the hotel about eleven and went to bed at once.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 4: Arriving in France

Ruth and her girlfriends have now spent a week crossing the Atlantic from New York to Europe. They sailed on the Majestic (in the White Star Line, sister ship of the Titanic) as second class passengers.

Let’s continue the story on Friday, June 23, 1922, “... we arose at 6:40.”

“It was all very interesting watching different things come into view on the shore.  Land looked rather good to us.  The Majestic can’t come to the dock at Cherbourg, so we have to be brought in by tugs.  It was tiresome waiting for everything to be attended to.”

Arriving at Cherbourg, France

“By the time we got to Cherbourg, it was 1:20 [p.m.]  We got by the customs all o.k.  He didn’t even make us unlock our suitcases.”

“Left Cherbourg at 5:00 and reached Paris at 9:40.  Saw lots of ‘interesting’ things. The buildings are all stone, brick or plaster and such odd things.  The fields are small and cultivated in a very haphazard sort of way.  Saw lots of red poppies, they are about as common as our dandelions.  When we reached Paris, we had a ride in a Ford to our hotel, the Victoria Palace.  Got two rooms with two beds each.  25 francs per day for each room.  The beds are very comfortable.  The chambermaid comes in every evening and turns down the beds for us.  Our first meal in France was eaten on the diner (in the train).  It was strange in many ways - we had pea soup, egg omelet, meat and potato, peas, ice cream, cookies, cherries and green almonds.  Everything is served separately.”

Note: The Victoria Palace hotel does still exist and it looks beautiful. I’m pretty sure the rates have gone up a little in the last 91 years.

1922 Europe Journal, Part 3: Still On Board the Majestic

Here is a short quick one for today... prepare for landing!

“Thursday, June 22, Slept until 11:00 [a.m.] again. Tomorrow we land at Cherbourg. We have our railroad tickets for Paris. Cost $4.75.”

Throughout the summer, each of the women seem to meet different men in various places. It is interesting how my grandma writes about these meetings and adventures. On this day, one of her girlfriends meets up with a man she played bridge with. “Told her she had beautiful eyes and some beautiful silk bloomers.  Ditched a date with another girl for one with her this evening.” 

Another one of Ruth’s girlfriends met a young man with a little baby girl. The mother had died and the father was taking his daughter back to England.

Ruth’s sister was getting married in Wisconsin on this date. She writes, “We also celebrated by eating some wedding cake.  Don’t know as we hit the correct time with it, but guess we came near enough.”

“I finished the day by having a date with one of the West Point cadets - JNK... “ (here she lists his name, we’ll use initials, as they see him throughout Europe). 

“We went up on the top deck and watched the stars.”

“Treated the cadets to the last of the wedding cake.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 2: On Board the Majestic from New York to France

“Saturday, June 17, This morning we got up about 7:30 to be sure to get everything ready and in order.” Ruth and her girlfriends proceeded to board the Majestic and find their staterooms. Remember the Titanic? Yes, well the Majestic is a sister ship of the Titanic - sailing just ten years after that disaster. I wonder if that entered their minds at all - it was never mentioned. As they settle in on the ship, Ruth writes, “We have already met the S. P. - at least that is who we have dubbed him. There are lots of S. M.’s on Board. We have some sized up already. Wonder how many have us cataloged and filed.” Guessing here, we think S. M.’s are Single Men, as these four ladies were all single at the time. As for the S. P., we do not know.

“June 18. After a desperate effort, I succeeded in coming to life this morning. Had a grand sleep.” She then mentions walking the decks, playing bridge, and getting some mail.

June 19 brings another late morning of sleep. They played a game called quoits that seems like a common deck game. Ruth notes that the weather has been warm, but they are constantly warned that it will turn cooler.

June 20 brings more of the same and, “Saw a whale this morning. At least I saw the spout made by it.” 

June 21: “Got dressed just in time for lunch. Walked the deck for a time after lunch and was collared by the S. P. He tried to make me believe that I was beautiful. My imagination absolutely refuses to stretch that far. We ditched him to go and play bridge.”  Oh grandma! That makes me laugh every time. Those who know me might begin to see where I get some of my humor :) Ruth sent a “Marconigram” to her sister, who was about to be married in Wisconsin. Later that evening, they ran across some West Point fellows and wandered to the upper decks to watch the “first classers dance."

1922 Europe Journal, Part 1: New York

Ruth's Passport Photo

Please excuse my little absence from the blogging world! I’ve been focusing on my photography for a little while.

Recently, I found myself working on my Grandma’s trip to Europe in 1922. Again. I’ve transcribed, scanned, researched and designed off and on for... over ten years. (I KNOW! Just finish it already!) But here’s the thing... the joy comes from the journey - and I’m living it as I research. This was not a short little trip. We’re talking three months, four women, and several ships, trains, cars, and busses. Oh, and a biplane. And icebergs! (We’ll get to that.)

On June 13, 1922, my grandma, Ruth, and three of her “besties” left a small town in Wisconsin (where they were all teachers), on a train to New York via Chicago. This is where her journal starts. Her handwritten journal turned out to be about 27 pages typed single-spaced. These ladies go on trips like they’ve met my husband - the tours and history is amazing and non-stop. 

So here’s what I’m going to do...

I’m going to post updates every few days to parallel the action 91 years ago. Today I’ll set up the scene and get them to New York, ready to depart for France.

June 13 - 17, 1922, Wisconsin to New York

Arriving in New York around 5:30 p.m. on June 14, they checked into the Hotel Savoy and went to the theater to see Captain Applejack. On June 15, they saw Eddie Cantor in Make it Snappy at the Winter Garden and Baileff Chauve-Sauris [I translated as “The Bat”] at the Century Roof Theater. “It was mighty unique and interesting.” There was some more touring and walking on June 16: Wall Street [where they saw evidence of the 1920 bombings], Trinity Church, and St. Paul’s Chapel. They went to see Blossom Time at the Ambassador that evening. “The music was lovely - more inspiration.” [Blossom Time is based on the life of Franz Schubert.]

Get a good nights sleep... tomorrow they board the Majestic and head for France.