1922 Europe: Passion Play

One more catch up image. My grandma got a small booklet with the entire text of the Passion Play and this is the cover:

The booklet also lists the cast names and has a diagram of the theater. The first inside page is stamped with the date they saw the play - July 23, 1922. I can't imagine how amazing this must have been!

1922 Europe: Blue Grotto

I previously posted the ladies' trip from Naples to the Blue Grotto and Capri. I had not yet scanned the postcard set from Capri, so here is the lovely Blue Grotto:

1922 Postcard: La Grotto Azzurra

My grandma's notes from July 11, 1922:
"We stopped first at Sorrento, then went to the Blue Grotto - that is a beautiful little grotto near Capri. We got off the boat here and got into little rowboats, in which we went into the grotto. It is like a large cave. We had to lie down in the boat when we went in the opening (because it) is so low.  Inside the entire cave is the loveliest blue I ever saw.  We landed at Capri a little after 12:00 (Noon) and had lunch at once at a little eating place looking out over the bay. It is lovely there. Our guide gave us the best of service and saw to it that we were well taken care of.” 

1922 Europe Journal, Part 20: Nüremberg

Saturday, July 29, 1922 - Nüremberg 

“Didn’t have breakfast until about 10:30, then got tickets for a sightseeing trip for the p.m. Went through a large gothic church. Don’t remember the name. After window shopping for a while, we stopped at a cafe for lunch. Got light refreshments, but heard nice music.”

[The “large gothic church” could be St. Lorenz. St. Lorenz is dedicated to Saint Lawrence and was badly damaged in WWII. It is one of the most prominent churches of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bavaria.]

“Started on our ride at 2:45. Had a four horse team on a large tally-ho effect. Met J.N.K. and his father again. W. and I had to sit with the driver. Stopped at the church we had visited in the morning. Also at St. Sebaldus church, which is the largest Protestant church in Nüremberg. In it is the oldest pipe organ in Bavaria. We also stopped at an old castle - the oldest in Nüremberg. Here we saw a museum which contained all instruments of torture imaginable. It was here that the iron jungfrau. It was used to put to death political offenders. In the evening, we went to the Apollo theater. Saw a vaudeville show. It was very good. R. went to the Winter Garden with Mr. Price, one of the Englishmen of the day before.  More love at first sight. Gosh! Another bath before I went to bed - two today. I scarcely know myself.”  

[St. Sebaldus Church is named for Sebaldus, 8th-century hermit and missionary and patron saint of Nuremberg. Construction began in 1225 and was completed by 1275. The church suffered serious damage in WWII. Johann Pachelbel served as organist here from 1695-1706.]

[Nuremberg Castle is comprised of three sections: the imperial castle (“Kaiserburg”), some buildings of the Burgraves of Nuremberg (“Burggrafenburg”), and the municipal buildings of the Imperial City at the eastern site. The castle does not appear in documents until 1105.]

[An iron maiden (German: eiseme Jungfrau) is a torture device consisting of an iron cabinet with hinged front and spike-covered interior. It is now thought that this is fictional and created as a hoax in 1793. However, several stories of torture boxes appear in medieval times.]

[The Apollo Theatre opened in July 1896. It experienced vaudeville in its heyday. In the 1920s, jazz came to the Apollo. It was destroyed by bombing in January 1945, was restored poorly, then finally closed in 1954. After briefly becoming a shopping area, it opened in 1961 as the Apollo cinema.]

Sunday, July 30, 1922

“We were awakened at 8:15 by a knock on the door. I opened it, expecting to see L.and found a man there. He began to jabber at me and of course I didn’t know what he wanted or who he was. After some time, I got the word passport and realized that he wanted to know if we had our police permit. We showed him that we had gotten one in Münich and he went away satisfied.  R. went to mass at 8:00, then we had breakfast at 9:00 and W., L. and I went to church at 9:30. We attended the church we visited yesterday - the largest Protestant one in Nüremberg. On our way home, we stopped at a city art gallery and spent nearly and hour there.  

In the p.m. we went out to the Tiergarten. Enjoyed walking about, looking at the animals and having the natives stare at us. Came home and took a nap before dinner. Then played bridge in the evening.”

[Tiergarten Nürnberg is listed as the city zoo. The tradition of zoos goes back to the Middle Ages. The Nuremberg Zoo was founded on 11 May 1912. After the Nazis seized power, the zoo had to give way for the Reichsparteitagsgelande (Nazi Party) and was closed in February 1939. It was almost totally destroyed in WWII then rebuilt at the end of the 1950s. Today it is one of the largest European zoos.] 

Monday, July 31, 1922

“L. and R. went to the museum this morning. W. went and got a manicure while I wrote letters. We hope to get our laundry back so we can leave this p.m. It didn’t get here until too late for the train. We mark time in the p.m. In the evening we went to the movies - rotten music. Went through the ordeal of paying our bill in the evening.  Had breakfast brought to our room.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 19: Nüremberg, Germany

Thursday, July 27, 1922 - Nüremberg 

“We broke the news to L. and R. this morning that we were going on to Nüremberg. They were somewhat surprised, but didn’t blame us at all. We left at 11:50 and reached here at 3:30 [p.m.].  

Had an uneventful journey. Sat with some English people on the train. When we reached Nüremberg, we went to the Bombergerhof Hotel, where they had just one room left - it was not overly clean or pleasant. Had dinner there. Ordered soup, steak and potatoes. Cost about 20 cents apiece. After supper, we looked around for another hotel. Went over to the Grand - it was full, but the man said he might be able to give us a couple of rooms for tomorrow night. Then we stopped in at a cafe where we ate ice cream and listened to the music. It rained hard in the afternoon, but was pleasant this evening. I murdered a flea before retiring.”

Friday, July 28, 1922 - Nüremberg 

“W. woke up with a bed bug bite. That made us decide to move if we could get rooms elsewhere. We went over to the Grand for breakfast - had ham and eggs, tasted good. They had two vacant rooms - one with a bath. Both were very pleasant and we decided to take them.  

Went through the museum then went back to the hotel and checked-out. Told them the rest of our party had rooms at the Grand and we wanted to be with them. The porter carried our stuff over and here we are. Went through the National Museum. It is quite different from the French or Italian museums or art galleries. At 3:30 we went over to the station to meet the girls. They had met up with two young Englishmen on the train. Had highly interesting times with the young Germans the night before. Love at first sight and in a foreign land is exciting, to say the least. Went for a walk, then had dinner and went to bed. W., R., and L. all indulged in baths. I washed my clothes and did a little pressing.”  

[The Germanisches Nationalmuseum contains art from pre- and ancient history up to present time. It describes itself as “the largest museum of cultural history within the German-speaking region and one of the most outstanding museums in the world”.]

1922 Europe Journal, Part 18: Munich

Monday, July 24, 1922 - Munich

“We woke up and found that it was pouring rain. Got ready for breakfast at 7:00. We had to be ready to leave at 8:00.  Took a bus to Munich. Thomas took us to the bus station in the rain. We stood around for nearly an hour. Finally, our bus appeared and we found Dr. and Mrs. Blaine. The drive was beautiful. The rain stopped after an hour and we had the top put down. Stopped at a little village where we bought some pocketbooks.  

Reached Munich about 12:30. Tried to get rooms at the Hotel Wagner, but couldn’t, so we came over to the Reichsadler where we have very fine accommodations. In the p.m. we did a little shopping and looked the town over a bit. Went to the theater in the evening, saw an operetta, had front seats.” 

Tuesday, July 25, 1922 - Munich

“Got up about 8:30 and were all ready for breakfast before L. and W. were out of bed. After breakfast we went shopping. Got a pocketbook and a fur. R. got a fur coat. Had lunch, then started out again. L. got a shampoo in the morning - paid 9 cents for it. Bought gloves and silver chains for our pencils - the latter cost 25 cents. Went to the theater again with the Drs. people. Saw a comedy.  I guess one would call it a musical comedy. Had a lot of good laughs over it. Said good-bye to Dr. and his wife, as they expect to leave at 7:00 in the morning. They are lovely people and we certainly enjoyed being with them.”

Wednesday, July 26, 1922 - Munich

“Did some shopping again this morning. At 1:30 we got a car to take us around the city. The driver pointed out things of interest.  Two soldier boys rode up on their bicycles and followed us for some time. We talked with them and they gave us their cards and asked to come to see us. At 8:00 they showed up at the hotel. They were young Prussian boys who were attending a military school in Munich. We enjoyed talking with them. They took us out to a cafe. R. and L. made the hits with them. They had to be in by 11:00, so we walked up to the school with them. It was a short distance from our hotel. They wanted us to stay over in Munich another day.  R. and L. were anxious to stay, so W. and I decided to go on the next morning just the same. We knew that the boys would be glad to have us out of the way.”

Nymphemburg Garden, Munich

Nymphemburg Garden, Munich

1922 Europe Journal, Part 17: Germany and the Passion Play in Oberammergau

Saturday, July 22, 1922

“It was a quarter of 5:00 when we got up this morning. Dressed, ate breakfast in our room and got to the station in time for the train at 6:00. Dr. and Mrs. Blaine were there waiting for us. Reached Munich about 10:45. After transferring and checking our baggage, we got lunch and went back to the station. There was an awful crowd there and all trains to Oberammergau were packed. W. got on the train to hold seats and the rest of us were tending to the baggage. We finally got a quarter and got on the train but could find nothing of W.  The train started and away we went without her.  

Reached Oberammergau [Bavaria, southern Germany] about 4:30. L. and R. went to their room and I waited at the station for the next train. It came in about half an hour and W. was on it. Had very pleasant rooms at the Führer home. The son plays the part of Thomas in the play. That evening, we walked about, got cards, etc. The village is in a class by itself. One feels as if he has been put down in a different world all together. It was a surprise to see the men and boys with long hair working at the station and about the streets.”

[Oberammergau is a city in the very southern part of Germany. It is famous for the Passion Play - first performed in 1634 as a result of a vow made by the village. The people of Oberammergau pledged that if God spared them from the bubonic plague, they would perform a passion play every ten years. The play is performed now in years ending with a zero. Additionally, it was performed in 1934 on the 300th anniversary, and 1984, the 350th anniversary. It involves over 2000 residents of the village that act, sing, play musical instruments, and are technicians. As we know, the 1920 performance was moved to 1922, due to WWI. Also, the 1940 performance was cancelled due to WWII, starting again in 1950. Throughout time, several updates and additions have been made to the theater and areas where the play is performed. The current theater holds 4,700. The play runs about 7 hours with a meal break. Most visitors stay one or two nights to see the play.  102 performances were given in 2000, between May 15 and October 3.]

Oberammergau Natives

Sunday, July 23, 1922 - Oberammergau

“We had to be ready for breakfast at 7:00 this morning, as the play started at 8:00. Got to the theater in good season, had splendid seats, about 15 rows from the front. The theater seats about 4,500 and about 2,000 more can be crowded into the standing room. It was packed today. The play lasts for eight hours: from 8:00-12:00 in the morning and from 2:00-6:00 in the p.m. About 700 people take part in it.  In the evening we took a walk and were ready for bed by 9:15."

1922 Europe Journal, Part 16: Jungfrau, Switzerland; Germany

Thursday, July 20, 1922

“We made the Jungfrau trip today. L. was not able to go, but she was feeling well enough for us to leave her. We left Interlaken at 8:45. After numerous changes, we reached the top of the mountain about 12:30. The scenery was wonderful all the way. The last 45 minutes of the trip was through a tunnel. At the end of the railroad is a restaurant where we had our lunch.  

Then we bought dark glasses and went out on the mountain. The sunlight on the snow was blinding. We had a guide to show us the ice cave and keep us in the path. The ice cave was beautiful. It was cut from the ice and lighted by electricity. Met J. K. and his father up there. Took pictures, watched the summer picnickers, etc. Took the train for Interlaken at 2:00. Reached home about 6:30. In the evening we went to the Kursall, where they had fireworks along with the music.”

[The Jungfrau is the third-highest mountain of the Bernese Alps. Peak elevation is 13,642 feet.]

Glacier on the Jungfrau

Swiss Cross on the Jungfrau

"Don't we look cold?"

Friday, July 21, 1922

“We got up at 6:00 this morning to be ready to start at 8:20 for Lindau [Germany], where we stay overnight on our way to Oberammergau. Changed at Berne, Zurich, and Romanshorn [Switzerland]. At the last we took a boat across Lake Constance. Had our passports stamped and baggage inspected on the boat.  It was a lovely day and the lake was beautiful.  

Reached Lindau [Germany] about 5:00.  Had dinner at 7:00 then went for a walk. Met Dr. and Mrs. Detroit with whom we had made acquaintance during the day on the train. Saw a strangely dressed young fellow with a guitar on his back. He was sitting on the steps writing postal cards. The doctor went up and spoke to him, then we got him to play and sing for us. He was joined by a companion and they sang several selections. They had lovely voices. The doctor gave him a [? type of money?], which he tried to refuse. After we had walked on for nearly half an hour, a small boy rode up behind us and began talking to us. Loraine could talk with him.  He said that the young singer wanted to thank us for the money. He told us that they were on their way to Oberammergau. The youngster said that he wanted to learn to speak English. We also met a young fellow from Madison. He tagged along with R. and W. and they were with him all evening. He is studying at Rush Medical. It is 11:00 and we have left a call for 5:00 in the morning."

[Lindau is a Bavarian town and an island on the eastern side of Lake Constance. It is connected by a road bridge to the mainland.] 

1922 Europe Journal, Part 15: Italy, Switzerland

Saturday, July 15, 1922: Milan, Italy

“We were called [at] 4:00 this morning to be ready for the train at 6:30. Got to the station after being somewhat worried because we had to wait for a whole tour party to get away from the hotel. Reached Milan about Noon and had lunch there at the hotel where we had stayed before.

After lunch we got a taxi and went out to Santa Marie del Gracia church where we saw daVinci’s Last Supper. Got back to the station and had a dickens of a time trying to find the train for Interlaken. Met our Neopolitan guide who helped us get us and our baggage all together in one compartment. The train was packed. Got through baggage inspection all o.k. Reached Interlaken at 9:30 that evening. It was raining and cold. The scenery the last part of the way was wonderful, especially in the tunnels. The people at the hotel welcomed us like members of the family and gave us a lunch before we went to bed.”

[The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci is in the refectory of the Santa Maria delle Grazie church in Milan. The painting represents the famous scene in John 13:21. It measures 180 in x 350 in and covers the end wall of the dining hall. Da Vinci did not work on The Last Supper continuously - work started in 1495 and was completed around 1498.]

Sunday, July 16, 1922: Interlaken, Switzerland

“We stayed in bed until 10:00, then W. and I had our baths. R. and L. took theirs last night. After we finished bathing, we went back to bed and stayed there until time for lunch. It was cool enough so we had to cover up to keep warm. The bed was the most comfortable place.” 

“In the p.m. we got a carriage and went to Trümmelback. It took nearly two hours to drive out there. The Falls are beyond description. The mountain scenery is wonderful all about here. In the evening, R. and I wrote letters while W. and L. went to a doctor. L. had been feeling miserable for several days. They also went over to Kursall to a concert.”

[Trümmelbach Falls are Europe’s largest subterranean water falls. They are located in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, often called the Valley of 72 Waterfalls. These glacier waterfalls are accessible underground. Meltwater of glaciers from Jungfrau comes into the valley.

[The Great Kursaal was built in 1921. It was a large palace with a restaurant, cinema, casino, and 859-seat theater. It was pulled down in 1973, leaving an empty plot. After several stalled attempts at building, the current building was completed in 1999. The Kursaal Auditorium can hold 1,800. There are several other rooms with various capacities. You can still go to a concert at the Kursaal!]

Monday, July 17, 1922: Switzerland

“Again we stayed in bed until late. Got dressed about 11:30 and started out to look for a hairdresser. Sent our suitcases out to be fixed and our laundry to be washed. Found a hairdresser and made an appointment for 2:00. L. tried to get dressed and go at 2:00. W., R., and I got scrubbed, rubbed, curled and manicured to within an inch of our lives. It seemed good to feel clean in the head once more. After dinner we went for a little walk then came back and wrote letters until time to go to bed.”

Tuesday, July 18, 1922

“Again we were lazy. We are here to rest and seem to be getting it. Had the doctor over for L. this morning. He gave her some different medicine and she is feeling better this p.m. W. and R. went on some sort of a mountain trip this p.m. and I stayed here to look after the patient. Spent most of the time reading the Reporter [newspaper from home] that L. got yesterday."

Wednesday, July 19, 1922

"L. is still sick in bed. The rest of us contemplated the Jungfrau trip but decided we better not leave her for the whole day. In the morning we went to Cook’s to find out about trains to Oberammergau. Were told that we must get a police permit to get into Oberammergau, and that we must get that at Bern. W. and R. made the trip, only to find that we have to get the permit in Munich. They had a lot of fun over it. The consul gave them visas at first and then crossed them out and refunded the money. I spent the time writing letters, reading, etc. Got the railroad tickets from Cook’s, purchased a suitcase to send to London and did errands in general. R. and W. returned in time for dinner, then R. and I went to the Kursall."

A Tale of Sixpence

Some coins were among the memorabilia my grandma brought back from her trip to Europe in 1922. I wasn't pleased with how they photographed, so I scanned them on my flatbed scanner. :)

I thought the blue patina looked kind of interesting on this one. With some quick research, I discovered this is a George V, minted in the UK from 1911 to 1927. The date on this coin is 1918. 

Front/Obverse: GEORGIVS V DEI GRA BRITT OMN REX

Back/Reverse: FID DEF IND IMP and SIXPENCE

George V, Back, 1911 to 1927

1922 Europe Journal, Part 14: Naples, Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, Venice

Wednesday, July 12, 1922

“We were all ready to leave the hotel at ten minutes to 8:00 this morning. Our guide was rather surprised, I think, to find us waiting for him when he got here. Went per carriage to the station where we took an electric train for Pompeii. Got there about 10:30 [a.m.]. Had plenty of time to see the ruins. The work of excavating is still being carried on by the Italian government. The city was first started in 600 B.C. It was buried during the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Ashes covered it to a depth of 15 feet. The buried city was discovered in the latter part of the 18th century, when an architect was laying an aquaduct. During the digging, they found the walls of the buried city. The condition of the streets and houses is quite wonderful. The different business places can be seen, as well as many of the homes. The old Roman house is the kind in evidence. The City Hall, theater-tragic and comedy, were pointed out, as well as different temples. In one place we saw the bodies of several people who were evidently suffocated. The bodies were left just as they were found. In the little museum, we saw more of the things taken from the ruins. Here were the 13 loaves of bread taken from a bakers’ shop. There were more bodies here also, and all sorts of kitchen utensils, surgical instruments, lamps, etc. Had lunch at the Grand Hotel. We had to take turns with the fly switch during the meal. Our guide told us afterwards that he never ate there because it was so dirty.”

“In the p.m. we went up Mount Vesuvius. Took an electric car from the station and went up at about an angle of 25 degrees. As we got near the top, we got into a cable car and went up at an angle of 45 degrees. When we got off, we walked on up to the edge of the crater. It was interesting to look down into it and see the smoke pouring out. Occasionally there would be a rumble and the smoke showed a red glow. We got back to the hotel in time for dinner. It was a hot, dusty trip, but well worth the time and effort. Must go to bed now and be ready for our start for Venice in the morning.”

[The city of Pompeii is believed to have been founded in the 7th or 6th century BC and was captured by the Romans in 80 BC. At the time of Mount Vesuvius’ eruption, it’s population was approximately 20,000.]

Thursday, July 13, 1922: through Florence, Rome to Venice

“Left Naples at 10:30 this morning on our way to Venice. Stopped at the American Express company on our way to the station. Got our tickets, sleeping car reservations, money, etc.  

Reached Rome at 3:00 - had to wait until 5:30. Got a taxi and went to the church of the Capucchinian. Dr. Andrews told us of it. There are several rooms - the walls of which are covered with the bones of Monks. We were quite surprised to find it directly across the street from the Alexandra Hotel. From there we went to the Capitoline Hill and the Imperial Palace.  On the Capitoline Hill is the Church of the Ara Coeli where we saw the celebrated statue of the Divine Infant. From there we went to the Pantheon, then back to the station. Made the most of our two hours of time. We had a chance to become initiated to an Italian sleeper. Reached Florence at 10:30 [p.m.]. Got to bed about 12:00 and rested fairly well.”

[The Basilica of St. Mary of the Altar of Heaven is the Church of the Ara Coeli referred to here.]

Friday, July 14, 1922: Venice, Italy

“We reach Venice about 7:30 this morning. Got off the train and found the Hotel Regina man who loaded us and our belongings into a gondola and headed us for the hotel. Cleaned up, had breakfast and went out to shop and see St. Marks [Cathedral]. Visited a lace shop and managed to get away without spending much money. Then we went to the Express office and got our tickets for Interlaken. L. got her Venetian shawl and we all invested in various kinds of poetry books, visited St. Marks, had lunch, then we all slept the sleep of the just.”

The Horses at St. Mark's Basilica

[Saint Mark’s Basilica is formally known as The Patriarchal Cathedral Basilica of Saint Mark. It is at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco and adjacent/connected to the Doge’s Palace. In 1807, it became the seat of the Patriarch of Venice, archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice.]

“After dinner we went for a gondola ride.  Had a gondolier who spoke English.  He was more than anxious to tell us about the points of interest.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 13: Naples

Monday, July 10, 1922: Naples, Italy

“L. and I got up at 6:30 this morning and came on to Naples. R.’s audience with the Pope was scheduled for 1:00, so she and W. stayed in Rome and we came on here to make arrangements for our sight-seeing trips.  We left Rome at 8:20 and reached Naples at 1:30. Took a carriage to the Hotel Riviera and got some of the dirt off before we started out again.

Went to the American Express for our trips. Arranged for a trip to Vesuvius and Pompeii for tomorrow and for one to Capri the following [day]. Also got our railroad tickets to Venice.  After finishing there, we strolled along and did some window shopping and some of the real kind.  Found a glove shop and couldn’t resist. While in there, our pestiferous friends of the train from Geneva to Rome came by. We did not recognize him. Then we hailed a taxi to go to the station to meet the girls. He took us to the dock first, then finally to the railroad station.  The girls did not get here on that train because R.’s audience with the Pope lasted until 2:30.  L. and I came back to the hotel for dinner then took the carriage to the station. Had a lady driver and she surely attracted a lot of attention. And we had lots to tell each other, as we had been separated for all of 12 hours.”

[The Hotel Riviera is just a few feet away from the center of Sorrento and overlooks the Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius.]

Tuesday, July 11, 1922: Naples, trip to Capri

“This morning we got up expecting to leave at 9:00 [a.m.]. and our guide was here at 8:15 for us.  We finished dressing in a hurry, then, swallowed some breakfast and were off. We thought we were going to Vesuvius, but after we got started, found out that we were going to Capri. When we got on the little boat to go out to the steamer, a crowd of people that we had seen on a couple of trips in Rome were with us. After we got on the large boat, one of them came and sat next to R. and me. Our two crowds stuck together all day and had lots of fun.  We stopped first at Sorrento, then went to the Blue Grotto - that is a beautiful little grotto near Capri. We got off the boat here and got into little rowboats, in which we went into the grotto. It is like a large cave. We had to lie down in the boat when we went in the opening (because it) is so low.  Inside the entire cave is the loveliest blue I ever saw.  We landed at Capri a little after 12:00 (Noon) and had lunch at once at a little eating place looking out over the bay. It is lovely there. Our guide gave us the best of service and saw to it that we were well taken care of.”   

[Capri is an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrentine Peninsula. One feature of Capri is the Blue Grotto - a sea cave. When sunlight shines through seawater, it creates a blue reflection in the cavern.]

“After lunch, we went up to the top of the mountain by cable car.  Saw some lovely villas.  It is a very popular resort, especially during the winter. We girls all decided to go there for our honeymoons. Saw the Krupp [famous arms maker in Germany] Villa, which has been taken over by the Italian government. Got back down to the dock and some of the crowd went swimming. The boat left at 4:30 and we got back to Naples about 6:45. Our guide put us on a train and we got out to the hotel o.k. Had dinner and got ready for bed. Now I’m going to roll in.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 12: Rome

Friday, July 7, 1922

“Got to Rome about 8:30 [a.m.] Came to the Alexandra Hotel, where we got rooms and began the cleaning up process. It was some process too, because we were the dirtiest things one could hope to see. Went down to Cooks and the Express office where we got tickets for the home trips.  In the p.m. we went to the Coliseum, The Baths of Caracalla, and the Catacombs. Rode along the Apian Way. It was the dustiest ride I ever took. We were almost too tired for a thrill over any of these things. Enjoyed the chocolate we bought at the Catacombs. After dinner we got a cab and rode for an hour. It is lovely and cool evenings and everyone makes the most of it.  Got to bed in good season.”

[The Colosseum, or Coliseum, is also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. It is an elliptical amphitheater in the center of Rome and is the largest amphitheater in the world. Construction began in 70 AD and was completed 10 years later. More modifications were made through 96 AD, during the Flavian dynasty. The Colosseum could hold (it’s estimated) 50,000 to 80,000 spectators and was used as you see in the movies - for gladiator contests, animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles.]

[The Baths of Caracalla, built 212-216 AD, were the second largest Roman public baths.]

[The Catacombs of Rome are underground burial places that began in the 2nd century. The catacombs are important for art history of early Christian art - they contain great majority  of frescos and sculpture dated pre-400 AD. The soft volcanic tuff rock under Rome creates the ability to create tunnels - it is softer when first exposed to air, then hardens afterwards.]

[The Appian Way was one of the earliest Roman roads, connecting Rome to Brindisi, Apulia, in SE Italy. It is named after Appius Claudius Caecus, who was a Roman censor. He completed part of the road during the Samnite Wars in 312 BCE.]

Saturday, July 8, 1922: Rome, Italy

“This morning we got down to the Cooks office for our trip at 9:30.   Went to the Vatican.  It has 11,000 rooms and contains 14,000 original works of art, painting and sculptures.  Saw the Sistine Chapel, where Michaelangelo’s Last Judgement is. Many others by the same artist. Other works by Da Vinci, Raphael.  Looked for pearls after that. Then had lunch and were ready for our p.m. trip.”

[The Sistine Chapel is the official residence of the Pope in Vatican City. It’s famous for architecture and the frescoes my grandma mentioned. The Last Judgment, painted by Michelangelo between 1535 and 1541 spans the entire wall behind the altar of the Sistine Chapel.]

“Went to Cooks office and there met J. K. of the Majestic.  It seemed good to see him.  Our trip took us first to the Quo Vadis chapel.  It was here that St. Peter is supposed to have had a vision of Christ, who said he was on his way to Rome to be crucified for the seventh time.  St. Peter went on to Rome and was put to death.  There was a tablette of marble there with the print of Christ’s feet on it.  Went to the catacombs again, but we girls did not go down in them.  Ate chocolate and green apricots.  Went out on the Apian Way and then back along the new Apian Way.  When we got back, we went over to the American college to see about getting an audience with the Pope.  Waited for a while, then W., L. and I went to shop and left R. to make the arrangements.”  

“Stopped in a glove shop and almost stayed there until our money was all gone.  Got back to the hotel about 7:30.  R. was there waiting for us.  She got a permit for herself, but could not get one for the rest of us.  After dinner, we got a taxi and went for a ride. Had a very nice driver, who acted as a regular guide.  Saw the Temple of Vesta [Roman Goddess of the Hearth/Vestal Virgin].  Stopped at the Coliseum and went inside to look at it by moonlight.  There is where we got our thrill.   Also saw the Pantheon.  Got back a little after 10:00.”

[The Pantheon was commissioned during the reign of Augusts as a temple to all the gods of ancient Rome. It is one of the best-preserved of al Roman buildings.]

Sunday, July 9, 1922

“We got up in good season this morning and I went over to St. Peter’s church in time for 9:00 mass.  Met J. K. there as per appointment and while R. attended mass, the rest of us looked at the church and studied the pictures, statues, etc.  When we got home, we rested and slept until lunch.”

“After that, we loafed again.  At 4:30, L., R., and I started for the bullfight.  Were to meet J. K. there at 4:45.  Missed us, had the courage to go in alone.  Saw horse races, as well as the so-called fight. It was better than a county fair for attracting people.

After dinner we played bridge for a while before going to bed.”

[Pope Pius XI was the head of the Catholic Church from 6 February 1922 to his death in 1939.]

1922 Europe Journal, Part 10: Switzerland - Chillon, Geneva, Mount Saleve

My apologies for posting out of order! I had this post all ready to go and just realized it wasn't up. Note that I am using initials for my grandma's girlfriends traveling with her - R, L, and W.

Monday, July 3, 1922

“Got up at 8:00 this morning.  Had breakfast and hurried over to the dock where we got a boat to Montreaux.  It was a beautiful day and the lake was lovely - Lac Leman is surrounded by mountains, many of which have snow on them.  We got a good view of Mont Blanc.  Reached Montreaux about 2:30.”

Lac Leman (Lake Geneva)

“Went out to the castle of Chillon, where we saw the prison of Bonivard about whom “The Prisoner of Chillon” was written.  Went back to the town and did some shopping.  Found some lovely hand embroidery work, which was very reasonable.  Got the boat for Geneva at 5:15.  Met Mrs. Hicks and her two sons on the boat. Reached here at 9:30.  The evening was lovely, I enjoyed the moon.  W, R and I hunted up a tea room where we had lunch [dinner].  L went out with young Hicks.  Got to bed at 11:45.”

Tuesday, July 4, 1922

“R and I got to breakfast about 10:30.  The maid asked if we wanted breakfast or lunch.  Went over to Cooks and got tickets for an excursion to the top of Mount Saleve for the p.m.  Had a nice trip by tram and cog car then walked the rest of the way.  On the return, the car went off the track and delayed us for about an hour.  Got back in time for dinner then wrote letters in the evening.”

Mount Saleve

1922 Europe Journal, Part 11: Switzerland, Italy

Wednesday, July 5, 1922

“We got up at 5:00 to take a train for Milan. Had to change cars at Lausanne and Brigue. Had our baggage inspected at the latter place.  Had wonderful mountain scenery all the way. Reached our destination about 4:30 [p.m.].  Went to the Capital Hotel du Nord. Had lovely rooms.  Dressed and went for a little walk before dinner. Ate in the court. Went for a ride in the evening.  Saw the cathedral by moonlight. Went to bed in good season."

[I could not find any information about the Capital Hotel du Nord in Milan.]

Thursday, July 6, 1922

“Went to the cathedral in the morning.  It is the largest in the world. It is purely gothic in style.  Had lunch and left there at 2:10 p.m.”

[The Milan Cathedral, or Duomo di Milano, groundbreaking was in 1386. It took nearly six centuries to complete. It is now listed as the fifth largest cathedral in the world. Mark Twain visited Milan in 1867 and wrote a wonderful description.

“We were told to get our sleeping accommodations when we got to Boulogne. Had interesting Italian company all the way. One man was very much concerned about our going to Rome alone. Told us to take a taxi to the hotel. At Boulogne we were told we could get a sleeping car at Florence, but we didn’t get one. As a result, we reached Rome the next morning feeling very brilliant after being up all night.  Pietro Fabbri struck up an acquaintance of R.  He knew a very little English and was anxious to learn more.  We were the curiosities of the train. Everyone stood around and watched us. We had two very gentlemanly Italians in the compartment with us all the way to Rome. One was an aviator. They had both served during the war and were very proud trying to explain to us about their wounds. The soldier had been wounded three times. The other man - six times. We could not have asked for more perfect gentlemen than they were.”

1922 Europe Journal, Part 9: Paris and a train to Geneva

Saturday, July 1, 1922

“We went downtown this morning and landed at the American Express office.  Here we got our mail and enough money to pay our hotel bills.  Expressed a suitcase to London.  Then we went and had shampoos.  It was worth a good deal to see us after we got our French coifs.  After doing a little shopping, we went home [the hotel in Paris].  

Went out to Des Invalides where the tomb of Napoleon is. Also got our theatre tickets.  Got back to the hotel in time to pack and have dinner.”

[Les Invalides was a project initiated by Louis XIV in 1670. It is a complex of buildings in Paris containing museums and monuments that display military history of France. It is also a hospital and retirement home for veterans.]

Sunday, July 2, 1922

“This morning we got up at 6:00 and were dressed and breakfasted by 7:30. Got over to the station where we got a train for Geneva.  It was rather warm riding. There was an interesting French girl in the compartment with us. Her husband was an American. There was also a young Frenchman who was married to an American girl. She was from Connecticut. We saw her greet him when he got of the train.”

“We drove dull care away by playing bridge. Had to get off at the Swiss border and have our baggage inspected. We got by easily. Reached Geneva about 8:15 [p.m.] and were very favorably impressed.  The air was so refreshing after the dirt of the train. Long lines of basswood trees are in blossom and are very fragrant. The mountains all about are lovely. Had a lovely dinner here at the hotel - The Touring Balance. And went to bed dead tired.”

[I believe The Touring-Balance is now Hotel Longemalle in Geneva.]