Saturday, July 29, 1922 - Nüremberg
“Didn’t have breakfast until about 10:30, then got tickets for a sightseeing trip for the p.m. Went through a large gothic church. Don’t remember the name. After window shopping for a while, we stopped at a cafe for lunch. Got light refreshments, but heard nice music.”
[The “large gothic church” could be St. Lorenz. St. Lorenz is dedicated to Saint Lawrence and was badly damaged in WWII. It is one of the most prominent churches of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bavaria.]
“Started on our ride at 2:45. Had a four horse team on a large tally-ho effect. Met J.N.K. and his father again. W. and I had to sit with the driver. Stopped at the church we had visited in the morning. Also at St. Sebaldus church, which is the largest Protestant church in Nüremberg. In it is the oldest pipe organ in Bavaria. We also stopped at an old castle - the oldest in Nüremberg. Here we saw a museum which contained all instruments of torture imaginable. It was here that the iron jungfrau. It was used to put to death political offenders. In the evening, we went to the Apollo theater. Saw a vaudeville show. It was very good. R. went to the Winter Garden with Mr. Price, one of the Englishmen of the day before. More love at first sight. Gosh! Another bath before I went to bed - two today. I scarcely know myself.”
[St. Sebaldus Church is named for Sebaldus, 8th-century hermit and missionary and patron saint of Nuremberg. Construction began in 1225 and was completed by 1275. The church suffered serious damage in WWII. Johann Pachelbel served as organist here from 1695-1706.]
[Nuremberg Castle is comprised of three sections: the imperial castle (“Kaiserburg”), some buildings of the Burgraves of Nuremberg (“Burggrafenburg”), and the municipal buildings of the Imperial City at the eastern site. The castle does not appear in documents until 1105.]
[An iron maiden (German: eiseme Jungfrau) is a torture device consisting of an iron cabinet with hinged front and spike-covered interior. It is now thought that this is fictional and created as a hoax in 1793. However, several stories of torture boxes appear in medieval times.]
[The Apollo Theatre opened in July 1896. It experienced vaudeville in its heyday. In the 1920s, jazz came to the Apollo. It was destroyed by bombing in January 1945, was restored poorly, then finally closed in 1954. After briefly becoming a shopping area, it opened in 1961 as the Apollo cinema.]
Sunday, July 30, 1922
“We were awakened at 8:15 by a knock on the door. I opened it, expecting to see L.and found a man there. He began to jabber at me and of course I didn’t know what he wanted or who he was. After some time, I got the word passport and realized that he wanted to know if we had our police permit. We showed him that we had gotten one in Münich and he went away satisfied. R. went to mass at 8:00, then we had breakfast at 9:00 and W., L. and I went to church at 9:30. We attended the church we visited yesterday - the largest Protestant one in Nüremberg. On our way home, we stopped at a city art gallery and spent nearly and hour there.
In the p.m. we went out to the Tiergarten. Enjoyed walking about, looking at the animals and having the natives stare at us. Came home and took a nap before dinner. Then played bridge in the evening.”
[Tiergarten Nürnberg is listed as the city zoo. The tradition of zoos goes back to the Middle Ages. The Nuremberg Zoo was founded on 11 May 1912. After the Nazis seized power, the zoo had to give way for the Reichsparteitagsgelande (Nazi Party) and was closed in February 1939. It was almost totally destroyed in WWII then rebuilt at the end of the 1950s. Today it is one of the largest European zoos.]
Monday, July 31, 1922
“L. and R. went to the museum this morning. W. went and got a manicure while I wrote letters. We hope to get our laundry back so we can leave this p.m. It didn’t get here until too late for the train. We mark time in the p.m. In the evening we went to the movies - rotten music. Went through the ordeal of paying our bill in the evening. Had breakfast brought to our room.”
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