Tuesday, July 16, 2013

1922 Europe Journal, Part 15: Italy, Switzerland


Saturday, July 15, 1922: Milan, Italy
“We were called [at] 4:00 this morning to be ready for the train at 6:30. Got to the station after being somewhat worried because we had to wait for a whole tour party to get away from the hotel. Reached Milan about Noon and had lunch there at the hotel where we had stayed before.

After lunch we got a taxi and went out to Santa Marie del Gracia church where we saw daVinci’s Last Supper. Got back to the station and had a dickens of a time trying to find the train for Interlaken. Met our Neopolitan guide who helped us get us and our baggage all together in one compartment. The train was packed. Got through baggage inspection all o.k. Reached Interlaken at 9:30 that evening. It was raining and cold. The scenery the last part of the way was wonderful, especially in the tunnels. The people at the hotel welcomed us like members of the family and gave us a lunch before we went to bed.”

[The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci is in the refectory of the Santa Maria delle Grazie church in Milan. The painting represents the famous scene in John 13:21. It measures 180 in x 350 in and covers the end wall of the dining hall. Da Vinci did not work on The Last Supper continuously - work started in 1495 and was completed around 1498.]

Sunday, July 16, 1922: Interlaken, Switzerland
“We stayed in bed until 10:00, then W. and I had our baths. R. and L. took theirs last night. After we finished bathing, we went back to bed and stayed there until time for lunch. It was cool enough so we had to cover up to keep warm. The bed was the most comfortable place.” 

“In the p.m. we got a carriage and went to Trümmelback. It took nearly two hours to drive out there. The Falls are beyond description. The mountain scenery is wonderful all about here. In the evening, R. and I wrote letters while W. and L. went to a doctor. L. had been feeling miserable for several days. They also went over to Kursall to a concert.”

[Trümmelbach Falls are Europe’s largest subterranean water falls. They are located in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, often called the Valley of 72 Waterfalls. These glacier waterfalls are accessible underground. Meltwater of glaciers from Jungfrau comes into the valley.

[The Great Kursaal was built in 1921. It was a large palace with a restaurant, cinema, casino, and 859-seat theater. It was pulled down in 1973, leaving an empty plot. After several stalled attempts at building, the current building was completed in 1999. The Kursaal Auditorium can hold 1,800. There are several other rooms with various capacities. You can still go to a concert at the Kursaal!]

Monday, July 17, 1922: Switzerland
“Again we stayed in bed until late. Got dressed about 11:30 and started out to look for a hairdresser. Sent our suitcases out to be fixed and our laundry to be washed. Found a hairdresser and made an appointment for 2:00. L. tried to get dressed and go at 2:00. W., R., and I got scrubbed, rubbed, curled and manicured to within an inch of our lives. It seemed good to feel clean in the head once more. After dinner we went for a little walk then came back and wrote letters until time to go to bed.”

Tuesday, July 18, 1922
“Again we were lazy. We are here to rest and seem to be getting it. Had the doctor over for L. this morning. He gave her some different medicine and she is feeling better this p.m. W. and R. went on some sort of a mountain trip this p.m. and I stayed here to look after the patient. Spent most of the time reading the Reporter [newspaper from home] that L. got yesterday."

Wednesday, July 19, 1922
"L. is still sick in bed. The rest of us contemplated the Jungfrau trip but decided we better not leave her for the whole day. In the morning we went to Cook’s to find out about trains to Oberammergau. Were told that we must get a police permit to get into Oberammergau, and that we must get that at Bern. W. and R. made the trip, only to find that we have to get the permit in Munich. They had a lot of fun over it. The consul gave them visas at first and then crossed them out and refunded the money. I spent the time writing letters, reading, etc. Got the railroad tickets from Cook’s, purchased a suitcase to send to London and did errands in general. R. and W. returned in time for dinner, then R. and I went to the Kursall."

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