Friday, July 12, 2013

1922 Europe Journal, Part 14: Naples, Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, Venice


Wednesday, July 12, 1922
“We were all ready to leave the hotel at ten minutes to 8:00 this morning. Our guide was rather surprised, I think, to find us waiting for him when he got here. Went per carriage to the station where we took an electric train for Pompeii. Got there about 10:30 [a.m.]. Had plenty of time to see the ruins. The work of excavating is still being carried on by the Italian government. The city was first started in 600 B.C. It was buried during the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Ashes covered it to a depth of 15 feet. The buried city was discovered in the latter part of the 18th century, when an architect was laying an aquaduct. During the digging, they found the walls of the buried city. The condition of the streets and houses is quite wonderful. The different business places can be seen, as well as many of the homes. The old Roman house is the kind in evidence. The City Hall, theater-tragic and comedy, were pointed out, as well as different temples. In one place we saw the bodies of several people who were evidently suffocated. The bodies were left just as they were found. In the little museum, we saw more of the things taken from the ruins. Here were the 13 loaves of bread taken from a bakers’ shop. There were more bodies here also, and all sorts of kitchen utensils, surgical instruments, lamps, etc. Had lunch at the Grand Hotel. We had to take turns with the fly switch during the meal. Our guide told us afterwards that he never ate there because it was so dirty.”

“In the p.m. we went up Mount Vesuvius. Took an electric car from the station and went up at about an angle of 25 degrees. As we got near the top, we got into a cable car and went up at an angle of 45 degrees. When we got off, we walked on up to the edge of the crater. It was interesting to look down into it and see the smoke pouring out. Occasionally there would be a rumble and the smoke showed a red glow. We got back to the hotel in time for dinner. It was a hot, dusty trip, but well worth the time and effort. Must go to bed now and be ready for our start for Venice in the morning.”

[The city of Pompeii is believed to have been founded in the 7th or 6th century BC and was captured by the Romans in 80 BC. At the time of Mount Vesuvius’ eruption, it’s population was approximately 20,000.]

Thursday, July 13, 1922: through Florence, Rome to Venice
“Left Naples at 10:30 this morning on our way to Venice. Stopped at the American Express company on our way to the station. Got our tickets, sleeping car reservations, money, etc.  
Reached Rome at 3:00 - had to wait until 5:30. Got a taxi and went to the church of the Capucchinian. Dr. Andrews told us of it. There are several rooms - the walls of which are covered with the bones of Monks. We were quite surprised to find it directly across the street from the Alexandra Hotel. From there we went to the Capitoline Hill and the Imperial Palace.  On the Capitoline Hill is the Church of the Ara Coeli where we saw the celebrated statue of the Divine Infant. From there we went to the Pantheon, then back to the station. Made the most of our two hours of time. We had a chance to become initiated to an Italian sleeper. Reached Florence at 10:30 [p.m.]. Got to bed about 12:00 and rested fairly well.”

[The Basilica of St. Mary of the Altar of Heaven is the Church of the Ara Coeli referred to here.]

Friday, July 14, 1922: Venice, Italy
“We reach Venice about 7:30 this morning. Got off the train and found the Hotel Regina man who loaded us and our belongings into a gondola and headed us for the hotel. Cleaned up, had breakfast and went out to shop and see St. Marks [Cathedral]. Visited a lace shop and managed to get away without spending much money. Then we went to the Express office and got our tickets for Interlaken. L. got her Venetian shawl and we all invested in various kinds of poetry books, visited St. Marks, had lunch, then we all slept the sleep of the just.”

The Horses at St. Mark's Basilica

[Saint Mark’s Basilica is formally known as The Patriarchal Cathedral Basilica of Saint Mark. It is at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco and adjacent/connected to the Doge’s Palace. In 1807, it became the seat of the Patriarch of Venice, archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice.]
“After dinner we went for a gondola ride.  Had a gondolier who spoke English.  He was more than anxious to tell us about the points of interest.”

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