Friday, July 7, 1922
“Got to Rome about 8:30 [a.m.] Came to the Alexandra Hotel, where we got rooms and began the cleaning up process. It was some process too, because we were the dirtiest things one could hope to see. Went down to Cooks and the Express office where we got tickets for the home trips. In the p.m. we went to the Coliseum, The Baths of Caracalla, and the Catacombs. Rode along the Apian Way. It was the dustiest ride I ever took. We were almost too tired for a thrill over any of these things. Enjoyed the chocolate we bought at the Catacombs. After dinner we got a cab and rode for an hour. It is lovely and cool evenings and everyone makes the most of it. Got to bed in good season.”
[The Colosseum, or Coliseum, is also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. It is an elliptical amphitheater in the center of Rome and is the largest amphitheater in the world. Construction began in 70 AD and was completed 10 years later. More modifications were made through 96 AD, during the Flavian dynasty. The Colosseum could hold (it’s estimated) 50,000 to 80,000 spectators and was used as you see in the movies - for gladiator contests, animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles.]
[The Baths of Caracalla, built 212-216 AD, were the second largest Roman public baths.]
[The Catacombs of Rome are underground burial places that began in the 2nd century. The catacombs are important for art history of early Christian art - they contain great majority of frescos and sculpture dated pre-400 AD. The soft volcanic tuff rock under Rome creates the ability to create tunnels - it is softer when first exposed to air, then hardens afterwards.]
[The Appian Way was one of the earliest Roman roads, connecting Rome to Brindisi, Apulia, in SE Italy. It is named after Appius Claudius Caecus, who was a Roman censor. He completed part of the road during the Samnite Wars in 312 BCE.]
Saturday, July 8, 1922: Rome, Italy
“This morning we got down to the Cooks office for our trip at 9:30. Went to the Vatican. It has 11,000 rooms and contains 14,000 original works of art, painting and sculptures. Saw the Sistine Chapel, where Michaelangelo’s Last Judgement is. Many others by the same artist. Other works by Da Vinci, Raphael. Looked for pearls after that. Then had lunch and were ready for our p.m. trip.”
[The Sistine Chapel is the official residence of the Pope in Vatican City. It’s famous for architecture and the frescoes my grandma mentioned. The Last Judgment, painted by Michelangelo between 1535 and 1541 spans the entire wall behind the altar of the Sistine Chapel.]
“Went to Cooks office and there met J. K. of the Majestic. It seemed good to see him. Our trip took us first to the Quo Vadis chapel. It was here that St. Peter is supposed to have had a vision of Christ, who said he was on his way to Rome to be crucified for the seventh time. St. Peter went on to Rome and was put to death. There was a tablette of marble there with the print of Christ’s feet on it. Went to the catacombs again, but we girls did not go down in them. Ate chocolate and green apricots. Went out on the Apian Way and then back along the new Apian Way. When we got back, we went over to the American college to see about getting an audience with the Pope. Waited for a while, then W., L. and I went to shop and left R. to make the arrangements.”
“Stopped in a glove shop and almost stayed there until our money was all gone. Got back to the hotel about 7:30. R. was there waiting for us. She got a permit for herself, but could not get one for the rest of us. After dinner, we got a taxi and went for a ride. Had a very nice driver, who acted as a regular guide. Saw the Temple of Vesta [Roman Goddess of the Hearth/Vestal Virgin]. Stopped at the Coliseum and went inside to look at it by moonlight. There is where we got our thrill. Also saw the Pantheon. Got back a little after 10:00.”
[The Pantheon was commissioned during the reign of Augusts as a temple to all the gods of ancient Rome. It is one of the best-preserved of al Roman buildings.]
Sunday, July 9, 1922
“We got up in good season this morning and I went over to St. Peter’s church in time for 9:00 mass. Met J. K. there as per appointment and while R. attended mass, the rest of us looked at the church and studied the pictures, statues, etc. When we got home, we rested and slept until lunch.”
“After that, we loafed again. At 4:30, L., R., and I started for the bullfight. Were to meet J. K. there at 4:45. Missed us, had the courage to go in alone. Saw horse races, as well as the so-called fight. It was better than a county fair for attracting people.
After dinner we played bridge for a while before going to bed.”
[Pope Pius XI was the head of the Catholic Church from 6 February 1922 to his death in 1939.]
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